The Art of Bartering

Knowing how to barter is an important lesson learned quickly by traveller, back packer or expat. It can be frustrating at first but the game is simple when you understand it and you must play the game if you want to understand. If you want to try your hand at bartering you must realize that it's all about attitude. If you show any amount of interest in an item, or give it a second glance, you'll be at the mercy of the vendor. You should never look or act excited about the item, even if it's exactly what you were looking for. If the vendor has something that you're looking for, they'll be less likely to part with it at a low price.

You can easily get the vendor down to a low price because they want to make a sale. Realize that the item sold on the street is not good quality (duh) and is probably worth half as much as they say it is. Think of a price you'd like to pay and go even lower. Stick with your initial quote and make them bring the price down to the price you want. Also, if you start to walk away, the vendor sees your money walking away with you.

To demonstrate this proper method, allow me to share with you a conversation I had when buying a pair of "Adidas" flip flops (the following conversation was made in broken English and broken Vietnamese):

-Hello! Come and see!
-No thanks, I don't want.
-Yes, yes. I have your size. Very cheap. (pulling my arm) Come, come.
-Oh, alright! Hmmm... these are OK. Size 11, you have?
-Oh! Very big! I'll check, maybe no have. (two minutes later) Here. Try.
-Yeah, not bad. How much?
-Good price. Three hundred thousand dong ($20)
-Whoa! Expensive! No thanks!
-OK, you say to me how much.
-One hundred thousand ($6).
-I'm sorry, I can't do. I give you for two hundred fifty.
-Too expensive.
-But good quality. Look, Adidas!
-(pointing to the top) Here Adidas, (after turning the shoe over) here Quicksilver!
-OK, OK. You're very handsome, two hundred.
-No. One hundred.
-One hundred eighty.
-I only have one hundred thousand. That's it.
-Sir, please. I can't do. Please. One hundred eighty is lowest.
-Sorry (as I begin to walk away)
-OK, OK. One hundred thousand. Only for you, my friend.
-Thank you very much. I'll take two pairs.

Street Shops

In a developing nation like Vietnam, you'd might think that there is no presence of franchise stores and brand name shops. In fact, there are plenty of signs of Western influence in businesses, stores like Levis, BMW, Rolex and KFC are prominent. There are shopping malls, supermarkets and convenience stores but these are mainly used by government officials or foreigners; the only ones who can afford such luxuries. The majority of daily shopping is still done in traditional markets and roadside stalls.

To buy any groceries, go no further than to the end of your street. There are usually multiple women pushing small carts catering to many different (but simple) foods. The area where these women congregate is usually bustling in the morning with people buying fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish. The food here is sometimes cheaper than in supermarkets but the quality can be compromised. There's something about buying unpackaged beef that has been sitting on a table in 35-40 degree heat, that I just don't trust.

Buying food on the street helps to become part of the community. It keeps money local and provides some of the locals a chance to make some extra money, or it may be the family's only income. For a foreigner living in Vietnam, it is the only way you can become part of the neighborhood. Visiting the markets for your daily fruits and veggies gives you a chance to practice speaking Vietnamese in a comfortable, laid back environment. Many of the vendors see the markets as an active social activity, and what better place to become involved with the people in your neighborhood?

As for clothes, name brands from the West are huge! However, the range of fakes and copies of name brands is also huge. You can buy knock-off shirts, pants, shoes, wallets, purses, bags; anything at all. Keeping up with the latest styles from Europe is simple, especially when they make the products in the country. Some of the knock-offs are painfully obvious and quite laughable but others are remarkably identical to their store bought counterpart. The quality of some goods can be unmistakable with the real thing and this means one of two things; the owner doesn't realize that they have something authentic or these things "fell off a truck."

Some of the shop owners take advantage of having "name brand" goods and see it as an opportunity to raise the prices exceedingly high, especially for foreigners. Since nothing in Vietnam has a price tag, the store owners charge whatever they feel like charging on that day, and the prices can change from person to person. The only way around this is to familiarize yourself with the ancient art of bartering; a skill that needs its own article to be explained effectively.

Heating Up

Uugggghh... this heat!

It's been summer-like conditions since March. The sun is oppressive by midday and because of this, I try to avoid going out during the day and only leave the comfort of my air conditioned room when it's absolutely necessary. I've even changed my job from teaching daytime to teaching only in the evenings.

Gotta stay out of the sun. Gotta keep cool.

Beautiful blue skies and tropical conditions are best avoided because they bring scorching sun and blistering heat. The rain is welcomed as a fresh relief and the night it the only time when it's comfortable enough to go out. The hottest summer days in Canada are the "cooler" days here in Hanoi. Not being used to such heat, I've had to choice but to accept it. There's no way out: I'm trapped in this oven they call a country.

The heat and humidity wouldn't be so bad if there was only a breeze throughout the city. Many Hanoians find coolness from the many lakes that are scattered over the city. The largest lake in Hanoi is "West Lake" (13 km in circumference). Many five-star hotels crowd the north end of West Lake, all of which have beautiful swimming pools overlooking the lake. A great getaway. Many couples stroll the paths around the lake and sit under the shade of the trees to stay comfortable.

The traffic is also obedient to the torturous sun. At every stop light, the parts of the road shaded by trees are more quickly occupied than a position at the front of the pack. Many motorists wear extra clothing to protect their skin from the sun. Women wear their husband's long-sleeve shirts not only to protect themselves from the sun, but also to keep clean from the dirty streets.

My resolution has been to deal with the heat as best I can. That includes air conditioners, shade, fans (electric and handheld), cold drinks, shorts, sandals and multiple showers. I also ride on motorbikes instead of cabs just to get a cooler breeze. I guess it's not too serious; summer will be over in another four months. At that time the temperature will drop back down to 20 degrees...uugghh.