Although I am amazed at the traffic in this city, I have been to the countryside and have seen how quiet it can be. I am in awe of tiny side street restaurants but I can find some familiarity with a burger and draught beer in a foreigner owned pub. So far, Hanoi has shown me many different sides of itself and the things that confuse or leave me shocked and open jawed are partnered with an easily digestible version. The only thing that still leaves me perplexed is the admiration that all Vietnamese have for their past president, Ho Chi Minh.
Vietnamese have celebrated the memory of Ho Chi Minh with many parks, streets and memorial buildings bearing his name, while propaganda posters still bear his image. The largest city and the commercial hub of Vietnam is even named after him. In the heart of Hanoi, there lies the "Ho Chi Minh Complex," which contains the Ho Chi Minh Museum, his previous stilt house and his Mausoleum. However, the construction of these buildings were against many of his wishes. He did not want to be remembered as a larger than life deity, and often demonstrated his connection to the common man and his loyalty to the traditional Vietnamese way of life.
"Uncle Ho," as he's affectionately known, is a looming, ubiquitous presence in Hanoi and all of Vietnam. His adoration is unmatched and unchallenged. Young students are taught to respect and admire his actions while the older generations fondly remember his leadership and influence over the nation. Foreigners remember him as the guy on Vietnam currency whom you should never talk negatively against.
Any negative comments about the great leader of Vietnam are taken very seriously by Vietnamese. I am weary to say anything bad about Ho Chi Minh or the government for fear of a negative reaction. This is a socialist republic after all. The people must work together, think the same and hold the same values in order to protect the sanctity of the nation. I am constantly told and reminded about his greatness and all that he has done for Vietnam. Throughout my conversations with some of my Vietnamese friends, I try to make them question their constant devotion to Uncle Ho and provide them with an outside perspective, one that hasn't been raised on his teachings. They unfailingly defend their beliefs and try to recruit me to think the same.
During one of my recent classes, I asked the students to think of one person, alive or dead, who they would like to invite to dinner and their reasons why. I got the expected answers of pop stars and international cultural icons like Britney Spears, David Beckham and President Obama but was surprised by one student who wished to dine with Ho Chi Minh. When asked his reasons for choosing Uncle Ho above someone more current or popular with someone his age, he told me that Uncle Ho was the greatest president of Vietnam and everyone should continue to respect his memory. The other students agreed with him and wanted to change their choice; whether from genuine desire, fear or intimidation, I really don't know.
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