Although I am amazed at the traffic in this city, I have been to the countryside and have seen how quiet it can be. I am in awe of tiny side street restaurants but I can find some familiarity with a burger and draught beer in a foreigner owned pub. So far, Hanoi has shown me many different sides of itself and the things that confuse or leave me shocked and open jawed are partnered with an easily digestible version. The only thing that still leaves me perplexed is the admiration that all Vietnamese have for their past president, Ho Chi Minh.
Vietnamese have celebrated the memory of Ho Chi Minh with many parks, streets and memorial buildings bearing his name, while propaganda posters still bear his image. The largest city and the commercial hub of Vietnam is even named after him. In the heart of Hanoi, there lies the "Ho Chi Minh Complex," which contains the Ho Chi Minh Museum, his previous stilt house and his Mausoleum. However, the construction of these buildings were against many of his wishes. He did not want to be remembered as a larger than life deity, and often demonstrated his connection to the common man and his loyalty to the traditional Vietnamese way of life.
"Uncle Ho," as he's affectionately known, is a looming, ubiquitous presence in Hanoi and all of Vietnam. His adoration is unmatched and unchallenged. Young students are taught to respect and admire his actions while the older generations fondly remember his leadership and influence over the nation. Foreigners remember him as the guy on Vietnam currency whom you should never talk negatively against.
Any negative comments about the great leader of Vietnam are taken very seriously by Vietnamese. I am weary to say anything bad about Ho Chi Minh or the government for fear of a negative reaction. This is a socialist republic after all. The people must work together, think the same and hold the same values in order to protect the sanctity of the nation. I am constantly told and reminded about his greatness and all that he has done for Vietnam. Throughout my conversations with some of my Vietnamese friends, I try to make them question their constant devotion to Uncle Ho and provide them with an outside perspective, one that hasn't been raised on his teachings. They unfailingly defend their beliefs and try to recruit me to think the same.
During one of my recent classes, I asked the students to think of one person, alive or dead, who they would like to invite to dinner and their reasons why. I got the expected answers of pop stars and international cultural icons like Britney Spears, David Beckham and President Obama but was surprised by one student who wished to dine with Ho Chi Minh. When asked his reasons for choosing Uncle Ho above someone more current or popular with someone his age, he told me that Uncle Ho was the greatest president of Vietnam and everyone should continue to respect his memory. The other students agreed with him and wanted to change their choice; whether from genuine desire, fear or intimidation, I really don't know.
Fine Drinking: Hanoi Style
Hanoi's drinking culture is very similar to its eating culture. There are lots of places to wet your whistle and mix with the locals. Normally, the places are street side joints equipped with the same small tables and chairs found in pho restaurants. Shuffling from restaurant to restaurant, I begin to wonder if they even make anything other than doll house sized furniture. However, the flow of beer and good times makes it easier to deal with the squatting conditions and the cramp in my leg.
The ever popular "bia hoi" is a marvel in all of Vietnam. Full during all hours of the day and night, these beer halls are a staple of Vietnamese culture. It has its place as the premier social meeting spot for midday lunch or late night get-togethers for most Vietnamese. These halls are used to meet with friends or to meet with coworkers; to celebrate a special occasion or to discuss the days events over a few cold ones. The customers also range from business men in suits to housewives in pajamas; local Vietnamese to travelers from all over the world. A cultural experience like no other!
Fresh draught beer is served at pennies a glass and are usually quite tasty if not high in alcohol percentage. The price of a glass of beer is so low that at 25 cents a glass, the cleanliness of the establishment does not even factor into the enjoyment of the bia hoi. A good bia hoi needs lots of space, a collection of different characters and, of course, a free flow of Hanoi's finest beer. Escaping the heat in a bia hoi is a common past time and a necessary act in the oppressive Vietnamese summer. The humidity is unavoidable and a cool beer is exactly what the doctor ordered.
These beer halls also serve as restaurants serving a variety of dishes usually coated in MSG. The food can be as cheap as the beer itself and is also surprisingly enjoyable for the price. The menus are usually in Vietnamese and difficult to translate, especially after a few beer. The staff are usually mindful of this and try to make suggestions accommodating to a foreigners palate. Some spots provide menus with picture references, but if all else fails, looking around at other tables and pointing at dishes being enjoyed by the Vietnamese works wonders!
However, the local bia hoi is not the only place to enjoy Hanoi beer. All of the small convenience stores sell bottles of beer for cheap. And the best part is that they can be enjoyed while walking down the streets at your own leisure. This is one of the amazing things about Vietnam and the rest of Asia. Asian countries definitely know how to enjoy their beer but my only complaint is that they don't make beer like we do in the Maritimes. If you're reading this, please send Keith's!
The ever popular "bia hoi" is a marvel in all of Vietnam. Full during all hours of the day and night, these beer halls are a staple of Vietnamese culture. It has its place as the premier social meeting spot for midday lunch or late night get-togethers for most Vietnamese. These halls are used to meet with friends or to meet with coworkers; to celebrate a special occasion or to discuss the days events over a few cold ones. The customers also range from business men in suits to housewives in pajamas; local Vietnamese to travelers from all over the world. A cultural experience like no other!
Fresh draught beer is served at pennies a glass and are usually quite tasty if not high in alcohol percentage. The price of a glass of beer is so low that at 25 cents a glass, the cleanliness of the establishment does not even factor into the enjoyment of the bia hoi. A good bia hoi needs lots of space, a collection of different characters and, of course, a free flow of Hanoi's finest beer. Escaping the heat in a bia hoi is a common past time and a necessary act in the oppressive Vietnamese summer. The humidity is unavoidable and a cool beer is exactly what the doctor ordered.
These beer halls also serve as restaurants serving a variety of dishes usually coated in MSG. The food can be as cheap as the beer itself and is also surprisingly enjoyable for the price. The menus are usually in Vietnamese and difficult to translate, especially after a few beer. The staff are usually mindful of this and try to make suggestions accommodating to a foreigners palate. Some spots provide menus with picture references, but if all else fails, looking around at other tables and pointing at dishes being enjoyed by the Vietnamese works wonders!
However, the local bia hoi is not the only place to enjoy Hanoi beer. All of the small convenience stores sell bottles of beer for cheap. And the best part is that they can be enjoyed while walking down the streets at your own leisure. This is one of the amazing things about Vietnam and the rest of Asia. Asian countries definitely know how to enjoy their beer but my only complaint is that they don't make beer like we do in the Maritimes. If you're reading this, please send Keith's!
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